Corn farm in Solano, Tuguegarao, Philippines |
"Cock-a-doodle-doo...." a very early morning wake up call, certainly not from cell phone alarm. The smoke coming from the burning wood lingered inside our homestay. Our warm host "Nanay" or mother was boiling fresh hot chocolate drink - chocolate eh or thick chocolate drink as it was called during the Spanish era - on the wooden fire. This was a memorable two days encounter with simple and happy life in Solana, Tuguegarao. A great pleasure to be in a place where television, cell phones, computers, tablets...and the likes are non essential contrary to developed countries.
Our first day was full of adventure, driving a van from Manila to Tuguegarao was such a learning journey. It took us sixteen hours to get there the longest so far, it could have been ten hours only if we have taken the three interconnected expressways and didn't get lost along the way. The people were friendly and honest enough to get us by the road. Obviously, we have seen different cities and towns along the way. In Santiago City, a man carrying a live chicken in a carton box who was sitting by the road side food stall was friendly enough to show us the shortest distance to Solano, Tuguegarao our final hop. It so happened that this fellow was heading the same direction so we took him for a ride. We dropped him off somewhere as requested and bid him goodbye. He did managed to help us and we were very thankful on that. Yet up until now, I would always remind myself to never again let a stranger hop in...that is lesson #1 from this trip. The #2 would be - always take the expressways not the national road unless you are in for a long winding joyride.
Finally, we arrived at Solana, Tuguegarao at around 8:30 PM the family of Elma my friend had welcomed us with all smiles and hospitality. I was expecting to see a straw hut homestay knowing that we were in countryside. I was too late to realized that even people in rural areas were keen to have their houses built in solid concrete. There were still few existing "nipa huts" or straw huts in the villages, but mostly were abandoned by the owners who had moved to concrete houses. Our host made sure that we were comfortable and enjoying to the fullest all the time. Since it was getting late and everybody was so tired from a long trip, we quickly settled down in our shared room. The room was simple and tidy just enough space for two adults and two kids. We didn't care that our bed had no cushy mattress and I was sleeping on the "banig" or woven mat on the floor. Without these simple and very basic things in this HOME, there will be urban life no more. We've set our hearts for tomorrow's whole day of fun farm activities.
Second day had come, it wasn't the usual morning for me. The cocks around the village were consistent on taking turns in crowing. After a short while came the sound of the water buffalo's moo, pig's grunt, dog's bark, goat's bleat and duck's quack. Before I got the chance to wake up my kids, they were already everywhere exploring every corner of the place. Elma told me not worry as the neighbours in the area are her relatives. This village where 80% of the families who live here are mostly close or distant relatives. In this setting shows the close knit relationship of the Filipino families, it demonstrated the values of sharing, caring and helping each other no matter what. One good example was sharing their harvest and livestock when one of the relatives have a family guest. Thanks to Auntie Anne for sharing her glutinous rice harvest and taking time in preparing, cooking it for us. While Uncle Karding gave us one of his finest live duck for roasting and to taste, unfortunately we didn't have enough time to try it, we'll save it for our next trip to Solana.
This mode of transportation was a little bit challenging than the conventional ones and it may not be as glamorous as we could imagine, but so far this was the best ride ever. I enjoyed the cooling fresh air that I breathed every milliseconds of the ride.
A kalesa or Karitela a horse drawn calash is still a mode of transportation in some parts of the Philippines. |
Heading towards "palengke" or market in a Kelesa was amusing. We took our time to climb up and alight the kalesa as we were not used to it. Upon reaching the market I saw some food stalls that were selling freshly cooked and mouth watering Tuguegarao fried noodle known as " Batil Patong ". It was very tasty, cooked with freshly handmade noodle, beef, pork, chicken base and sautéed veggies. One serving was more than enough for me so I shared some with hubby.
Famous in Tuguegarao Batil Patong a stir-fried noodle |
Fresh cacao beans ready for roasting |
We had a very sticky muddy experience the rest of the afternoon. It was around two hours of interesting walk to and from Cagayan River from our homestay. On our way, we saw mother duck roaming around the mud with at least ten ducklings tailing her, in spite of the muddy surrounding the feather of the ducks were looking clean and groomed. Kids had fun catching and petting the ducklings. Then off we went to cross the farm water irrigation, at least one third of our legs were rooted into the sticky slippery mud as we struggle to walk across the irrigation. The irrigation, supplies water to the plantation, it also serves as bathing and cooling area for water buffalos. There are animals living in the irrigation like frogs, snails, eels. I saw a man catching eels using two long bamboo rods with aluminium wire running thru it. He was carrying on his back the motor battery that would sent energy to temporarily shock the eel and enabled the man to catch eels efficiently. Kids were running, skipping, hopping wild on the vast rice and corn fields. We had to be mindful not to step and crash the corn plant. There were some wild spinach with thorny stem, once I accidentally stepped on it. It wasn't that painful, but I couldn't press a weight on the area of my sole where the teeny tiny thorn was stuck. Nevertheless, I did continue walking through the big puddle of water. Little did I know a toad was swimming beside me, I started following it and it just disappeared somewhere out of sight.
Finally, we were getting closer and closer to Cagayan Valley River. The river water was murky due to the rain, that made it impossible for swimming. It didn't stopped the anxious kids from wading and playing in it. According to the locals, during summer the river is clear and the water is not so big, they would normally bring their families for fishing, barbeque and picnic around the area. During heavy rains the water can cover some areas of the farmland, that could damage the crops.
Late in the afternoon we decided to visit Callo Cave in Penablance, Tuguegarao, this was my farthest land travel 509 km from Manila.We needed to take the long route as the river water had overflowed onto the shortcut road. As our van climbed up the road, landslide remains were scattered on the road that made it slippery to drive. Slowly we head to Callo Cave, there were 183 steps to the mouth of the cave. When we reached the entrance of the cave it was getting dark already, in Philippines the sunsets around five thirty +/-. If it wasn't drizzling, we would have witness thousands swarm of bats flying out from the cave mouth. As the night falls, bats would come out from the cave in search of food. If you want to see the prime of Callo Cave, the best time to come here is before the sunrise - you can check sunrise timing here to be exact. To see the spectacular bat flight up close from the mouth of the cave, you must reach the place before the night falls. To appreciate it more, you can arrange a small boat to bring you closer to the exact location where the bats would come out.
Callo Cave is part of the Penablanca Protected Landscape and Seascape area, it has seven chambers and each chambers has openings that allows natural light into the cave. Upon entering the main entrance of the cave you will see chapel where special masses are held by those with permits.
The City of Tuguegarao, Cagayan Valley is at the Northeast tip of the Philippines facing the Pacific Ocean on the East and closest to Taiwan. Tuguegarao is sorrounded by Cordillera Mountains to the West, Sierra Madre Mountains to the East and Caraballo Mountains to the South.
Feet mud pack. |
Rio Grande Cagayan River, is the longest and largest river in the Philippines. |
Callo Cave is part of the Penablanca Protected Landscape and Seascape area, it has seven chambers and each chambers has openings that allows natural light into the cave. Upon entering the main entrance of the cave you will see chapel where special masses are held by those with permits.
Callo Cave |
Here are the exciting ways to Tuguegarao :
by car, via the three interconnected highways from EDSA Balintawak, Quezon City right towards North Luzon Expressway (NLEX), continue to Subic-Clark-Tarlac Expressway (SCTEX), continue to Tarlac-Pangasinan-La Union Expressway (TPLEX) take Gerona exit towards Gerona-Guimba Road, turn right to Nueva Ecija-Pangasinan Road, turn left to Pan-Philippine Highway heading to Tuguegarao.
by bus, Victory Liner , G.V. Florida Transport , Five Star Bus
by plane, Cebu Pacific , PAL Express
There are quite few accommodation that are located in Tuguegarao City at very reasonable prices. You will have to check though if the hotel suits your needs. Check out various online bookings and reviews before making a decision.
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